Wiring Archives - Page 12 of 15

Rear LED tail lights on a 1967 Mustang Restomod wired with the Infinitybox system

Turn Signals & Brake Lights

June 17, 2016/4 Comments/in Wiring /by admin

We’re making good progress on wiring the outputs on our 1967 Mustang. We’ve made it though headlights, high-beams and parking lights. Now, let’s wire the turn signals and the brake lights. Just like the parking lights, there are turn-signals in the front of the car and the rear. Your 20-Circuit Kit is set up with dedicated outputs on the front & rear POWERCELLs to make wiring these easy. We’re going to talk about wiring the POWERCELL outputs in this post. We’ll get to wiring the inputs in a later post.

Our Infinitybox system has a few advantages over traditional wiring harnesses when it comes to turn-signals and brake lights.

The flashing is done inside the POWERCELL. You don’t need a separate flasher module to actually blink the turn signals.
The wiring to the turn signals is much shorter than a traditional wiring harness because you’re connecting the bulbs to the POWERCELL located in the front and rear of the car.
It doesn’t matter if you are using incandescent bulbs of LEDs. Since the POWERCELL is doing the flashing, you don’t need a load-resistor for LED’s.
We can manage any different type of turn signal configuration. That is done by picking different MASTERCELL input wires.

For the brake lights, there are two different options. We’ll be the first to admit that this can be a little confusing.

In some cars, you have a separate bulb or filament on a light bulb that is for the brake lights. When you step on the brake light pedal, that switch controls its own light. We call this a multi-filament configuration. There are multiple bulb filaments that handle the turn signals and the brake lights. In this configuration, there is a separate POWERCELL output for the brake lights. This picture shows you the wiring for the multi-filament configuration.

Diagram showing how to wire turn signals and brake lights with the Infinitybox system.

In other cars, the rear turn-signals also work as the brake lights. In this case, you have a single filament that works as both the turn-signal and the brake light. This function was usually managed within the steering column mechanism. We call this a 1-filament configuration or a single-filament configuration. That means there is one bulb filament on the left side and one on the right side of the rear of the car that works as the turn-signal and brake light. If you use our 1-filament configuration, the rear left and right turn-signals will flash when you turn on the left or right turn signal. If you step on the brake pedal, both the left & right turn-signal outputs will turn on together for the brake lights. If you have a turn-signal on and you step on the brake lights, the turn signal will over ride the brake light on that side of the car. This picture shows you the wiring for the 1-filament configuration.

Wiring diagram for 1-filament brake lights and turn signals for the Infinitybox system.

Here’s a good rule of thumb to figure out which brake light configuration you have in your car. If your turn signals are amber, you probably have the multi-filament configuration. There are separate red lights for the brake lights. If your turn-signals are red, you probably have the 1-filament configuration. Those red lights in the corner of the car are both the turn-signals and the brake lights.

Once you figure out the brake light configuration that you have in your car, go to your configuration sheet and pick the POWERCELL output wire colors. In most configurations, the left turn-signal is the brown wire on the front & rear POWERCELL. The right turn-signal is the violet wire on the front & rear POWERCELL. Connect these wires to the left & right turn signals in the front & rear of the car. The POWERCELL output wire goes to one wire on the turn signal bulb. The other wire on the turn signal bulb goes to ground on the chassis. If you are using LED’s make sure that you have the polarity of the bulbs correct. The bulbs will not light if the wires are backwards.

If you are using the multi-filament configuration, you need to splice the brake light output to the brake light bulb on the left & right side of the car. Follow the instructions that we gave in the headlight post for making these splices. If you have a third-brake light or a CHMSL in the car, you can splice off of this same brake light output to power the extra light.

In our customer’s 1967 Mustang, they are using a sequential tail light assembly made by Mustang Projects. You can see the details on that at this link. Their system comes with a very simple manual that shows how to connect the wires for the left turn, right turn and brake lights. This one was wired using the multi-filament configuration which meant that there was a separate output for a brake light. It was very easy. This picture shows the tail light assemblies mounted in the car.

Rear LED tail lights on a 1967 Mustang Restomod wired with the Infinitybox system

The last step in wiring the turn-signals and the brake lights is to wire the indicators on the dash. You simply splice off the POWERCELL outputs in the front of the car and run 22-AWG wires to the dash indicators. This customer tied into the outputs for the left & right turn-signals, ran these wires to the indicators and grounded the other side of the indicator. They were using LEDs for the indicators so they had to make sure that they had the polarity of the bulbs correct.

Our Infinitybox Splice Saver Kit is a really simple accessory that can be used to make splicing your turn signals indicators into their respective outputs easy. This picture shows how you can create a sealed junction point with the Splice Saver for your turn signals and their indicators.

Wiring turn signals and dash indicators with the Infinitybox Splice Saver Kit

That is it for turn-signals and brake lights. Stay tuned for the next posts talking about wiring this 1967 Mustang with our Infinitybox 20-Circuit Kit. If you have questions or comments, please contact us at this link.

Parking Lights

June 16, 2016/0 Comments/in Wiring /by admin

In our last post, we talked about wiring the headlights and high-beams to the front POWERCELL in your Infinitybox system. Now it is time for you to wire the parking lights. What we call parking lights can be called a few different things. Some guys call them marker lights, some call them running lights or driving lights. We call them parking lights. These are the amber lights on the front of your car and the amber or red lights on the rear of your car. Essentially, you are going to wire them the exact same way that you did for your headlights and high-beams with a few important exceptions.

There are parking lights on the front of your car and on the rear of your car. Instead of running wire from the front to back of your car to power these lights together, we have dedicated outputs on the front and rear POWERCELLs for these lights. In the case of our 1967 Mustang project, we power the front parking lights from the POWERCELL in the driver’s fender. The rear parking lights come from the rear POWERCELL mounted in the trunk. In both cases, the runs of wire are very short.

Remember that the switch does not connect to the lights. The switch connects to the MASTERCELL. We’re going to get into wiring the switches in upcoming blog posts.

In configuration that we are using for this 1967 Mustang, the parking lights are on outputs 6 on the front and 6 on the rear POWERCELL. These are the yellow wires. Click here to read the blog post that talks about the configuration sheet. Run your parking light output wire to the the closest parking light on that side of the car, then splice off of that to go to the second parking light on that side of the car. The parking light output is going to connect to both the left and right parking light bulbs. These are wired in parallel. The other wire in the parking light harness needs to get connected to ground. Check the documentation that came with your lights for the proper wires for power and ground. If you are using LED parking lights, the polarity is very important. LED lights will not work if they are wired backwards. You can see the headlight blog post to talk about ways to tap between the left and right lights on the car by clicking here.

You are going to use the parking light outputs from the front & rear POWERCELLs to power the lights. You are also going to tap off of these POWERCELL outputs to power other illumination in the car. Each POWERCELL output has capacity for 25-amps. Most parking lights draw about one amp so you have lots of room to spare.

In the front of the car, you are going to tap off of your parking light output to power the gauge illumination and your dash illumination. That way, you have lights on your gauges and dash when your parking lights are on. In the rear of the car, you are going to tap off of the parking light output to light your license plate light and any other running lights on the back of the car.

This illustration shows you how the front & rear parking light outputs connect from the two POWERCELLs in the car.

Diagram showing how to power your parking lights from the Infinitybox system.

We wanted to add a few comments about splicing and tapping off wires in your harness. We do not recommend products that pierce the wire insulation for making taps. This is a decent way to make splices in low current applications in sealed enclosures for telecom systems. We do not recommend these types of taps or splices for the automotive environment. Vibration, temperature, oil, dirt and grease will cause these taps to fail over time. We recommend that you use crimp connectors or solder these splices. If you used either of these methods, the joints should be protected and covered with heat-shrink tubing.

Another great option for creating a sealed junction point is to use our Infinitybox Splice Saver Kit. This is a simple way to join multiple wires together in a sealed connector. This pictures shows you an example of how to splice multiple lights to your single parking light output on your front POWERCELL using the Splice Saver Kit.

Wire diagram showing how to wire front parking lights and illumination with the Infinitybox Splice Saver Kit

This picture shows you how you can use the Splice Saver Kit to wire your rear parking lights.

Wiring diagram showing how to wire parking lights and brake lights with an Infinitybox Splice Saver

Click on this link to contact our team with questions or comments about wiring your parking lights with our Infinitybox system.

Headlights

June 15, 2016/5 Comments/in Wiring /by admin

In our last post, we hit the high-points of wiring the outputs on our Infinitybox POWERCELLs. Over the next few posts, we are going to go into detail on wiring some of the specific loads in your car. This post is going to talk about headlights.

Headlights are usually the easiest output to wire and we use them as an example when we’re helping guys wire their cars over the phone. On the front POWERCELL, there is a dedicated output for the headlights. Check your configuration sheet for the exact wire color. This blog post will show you how to do this. In the case of our 1967 Mustang project, the POWERCELL output wire for the headlights is the white wire. This is output 5 on the B connector.

From the front POWERCELL, you are going to run the white output wire to your headlights. It is usually easiest to run the wire to the closest headlight, then splice from there to go to the second headlight. Essentially, you are wiring the two headlights in parallel. You can use our Splice Saver Kit to make this connection easy and reliable.

In the previous post about wiring POWERCELL outputs, we talked about ways to connect wires together. These options include butt-splicing, soldering and connectors. You can built the splice between the two headlight bulbs in this splice. This picture shows a simple schematic for wiring the two headlights off of a single POWERCELL output.

Picture of a simple schematic showing how to wire your headlights to the Infinitybox POWERCELL

There are going to be two wires on each of your headlights. One is the 12-volt power coming from the POWERCELL output. The other is ground, which needs to be connected to the chassis. If your high-beams are integrated into the same headlight housing, there may be multiple connections. You need to consult the paperwork or instructions that came with your headlights.

If your headlights are incandescent bulbs, the orientation of the power input and ground wires do not matter. The current will flow through the filament in the bulb in either direction. If you headlights are HID or LED, the polarity will matter. You need to consult the manual for the HID or LED headlight kit.

The standard headlight output on the front POWERCELL is designed for an incandescent bulb. We can do things with a POWERCELL output that you can’t do with a relay. Because we are using solid-state relays, we can do something called Pulse-Width Modulation. That means that we can gradually ramp up the power to an output.

Incandescent bulbs have a high in-rush current. When the bulbs are cool, the resistance of the filament is relatively low. When you first turn on the bulb, it will draw a lot of current. As the bulb and filament heat up, the resistance of the filament increases significantly, which limits the current to its steady-state draw. This inrush current can be 4 to 10 times the steady state current. You need to size you wire and the fuse to work with this inrush current. We have done that for you in our choice of output harness wire.

We soft-start the standard headlight and high-beam outputs on the front POWERCELL. This essentially smooths out the inrush, which causes less stress on the fuse, the wiring and the light bulb. You get this feature automatically if you use the standard MASTERCELL input.

You can use this same soft-starting output for LED (Light Emitting Diode) headlight kits. If you are using HID (High Intensity Discharge) headlights, you need to use a different input to the MASTERCELL. There is a dedicated input to the MASTERCELL for HID headlights. If you use this input, the headlight input turns on instantaneously without the soft starting. We’ll talk more about MASTERCELL inputs in later posts.

While we’re at it, you are going to wire your high-beams exactly the same way as the headlights. In the case of the configuration that we are using for this 1967 Mustang, the dark-blue wire from the front POWERCELL is for the high-beams. This is output 7 on the A connector. You are going to run the high-beam output from the POWERCELL to the first high-beam bulb then splice over to the second high-beam bulb. Check the documentation that came with your bulbs for proper wiring. The ground wire on the bulb should connect to the chassis of the car.

Keep watching our blog for more posts on wiring the different outputs on your Infinitybox wiring system. Click this link to contact our team with questions.

Picture of POWERCELL with CAN cable in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system

POWERCELL Output

June 14, 2016/3 Comments/in Wiring /by admin

Now it is time to connect the POWERCELL outputs to your loads in the car. When we talk about loads, we refer to the things that you need to power to make the car work. These include your headlights, turn signals, ignition systems, starter solenoids, fuel pumps, cooling fans, horns, lights, etc. All of these loads are going to the connect to each POWERCELL output to get their switched battery power.

This post is going to cover the basics of wiring the POWERCELL outputs. We will publish several specific posts that will go through the details of how to wire your turn signal outputs, wiring your ignition and starter, wiring cooling fans and other loads.

The automotive electrical system uses a grounded chassis. This means that each load gets its switched power from some power distribution device. In your case, it is your POWERCELL. Current flows from the POWERCELL to the load. To complete the circuit, the load needs to get connected to ground, which is typically your chassis. The chassis is connected to the negative post of the battery. This is how the circuit is completed in your system.

Another thing to remember about your Infinitybox system is that the switches connect to the MASTERCELL. Your loads connect to the POWERCELLs. There is no connection between the switch and the load. That connection comes from a data command sent from the MASTERCELL to the POWERCELLs. When you turn on a switch, the MASTERCELL tells the POWERCELL to turn on an output.

Your kit includes an A & B output harness for each POWERCELL. If you have our 10-Circuit Kit with one POWERCELL, you have one each of the A & B harnesses. If you have our 20-Circuit Kit with two POWERCELLs, you will have two of each.

This picture shows you the POWERCELL A output harness. It has the wires for outputs 6 through 10.

POWERCELL A Output Harness

This picture shows you the POWERCELL B output harness. It has the wires for outputs 1 through 5.

POWERCELL B Output Harness

Yes, we get that it seems that the A & B designations are reversed for these harnesses. That designation came from the original layout of the POWERCELLs from our early beginnings. These designations have stuck and changing over a decade of documentation would be tough.

Please note that the A & B connectors are interchangeable in the POWERCELL output sockets. A lot of initial problem calls that we get from customers come from the fact that they have these harnesses reversed. Make sure that you are plugging the correct harness into the correct socket. The manual that came with your kit shows you the correct orientation. This picture also shows which connector socket is A & B.

Illustration of Infinitybox POWERCELL labeling output connectors

Once you get the connectors plugged into the correct sockets, you need to properly ground the POWERCELLs. Each of of the output harnesses have a black wire. Both of these black wires need to get grounded to the chassis. This is to properly ground the electronics in the POWERCELL. Make sure that you have a good metal-to-metal connection between these ground wires and the chassis. You must make sure that you remove all dirt, rust, oil, grease, paint and powder coating from this connection.

Next, it is time to start connecting the POWERCELL output wires to the loads in the car. Remember that your configuration sheet is your road map to do this. You can review our previous blog post about the configuration sheet as a refresher by clicking this link. The configuration sheet is going to identify the specific POWERCELL output wire by color for each load in the car.

You are going to run the POWERCELL output to the load. From there you must connect the POWERCELL output wire to the wiring on your light, fan, horn, fuel pump, etc. There are many different ways to do this. People will argue advantages of one method over another. If done correctly with the right tools, they are all good methods.

One of the easiest ways is to butt splice the POWERCELL output wire to the wire on your load. For example, you cooling fan will probably have two wires coming from the motor housing. You can use a butt splice connector to connect the POWERCELL output wire to the wire on the fan motor. This picture shows an example of a butt-splice.

Picture showing example of splicing wires in our 1967 Mustang Install of the Infinitybox wiring system.

The team at Waytek Wire have a great post on their blog called “Splice Connectors 101”. In this article, they walk you through the basics of splicing wires together. Click here to read this article.

What is important is that you use the correct crimp tool and you properly seal the joint. This seal can be done with heat shrink tubing or you can use butt crimp connectors that already have a heat-shrink jacket over them. Companies like Waytek and Del City are great sources for the right tools and materials.

Another option is to solder the wires together. A lot of customers swear by this method or a combination of butt-splicing and soldering. The advantage is that you get a metallurgical connection between the copper strands of both wires. Some will argue that this is stronger and more reliable than a pure mechanical crimp of a butt-splice. Just like the butt-splice mentioned above, this joint must be sealed preferably with heat shrink. The only warning with soldering is that if too much solder is applied to the joint, it can wick up the strands of the wire flowing away from the joint. This wicking can make the wire more rigid and susceptible to fatiguing if the joint is stressed mechanically. Just watch the amount of solder that you are applying to the joint.

The last is to put connectors on both ends of the connection. This is the most time consuming and costly, but it has advantages down the road if you need to remove the load for maintenance. There are many different options for connection systems. Deutsch connectors are very popular in racing. They are rugged, durable and proven. Delphi Weatherpack connectors are another option. They have been proven in the field for decades and are a cost effective option. You can purchase Weatherpack kits from many different sources that include the proper tools to crimp the terminals. Here is an example of a Weatherpack kit that includes the tool.

If the POWERCELL output harnesses are not long enough, you can easily extend them using any of the connection methods mentioned above. You must make sure that you use the right size of wire and the right insulation type. We use 14-AWG wire for all of the POWERCELL outputs. This will carry 32-amps continuously, which is very conservative for most aftermarket and racing applications. We use wire with TXL insulation. This is a cross-linked wire designed for the automotive environment. It is oil, dirt, chemical and abrasion resistant. You can source extra 14-AWG TXL wire at this link. We can also create custom harness lengths. Contact our sales team for details.

Just a few last comments about wiring the POWERCELL outputs. Stay away from Home Depot. We say this as a joke but it is important. The same materials that you’d use to wire a house have no place in the car. That means no wire nuts, extension cords or electrical tape to make connections. Use only tools and materials that are designed to handle the automotive environment in your car.

Keep watching for the next posts that will detail wiring POWERCELL outputs to some of the specific systems in your car. If you have any questions, please click on this link to contact our team.

Configuration Sheet

June 13, 2016/15 Comments/in Wiring /by admin

The Configuration Sheet is your road map to wiring the car with the Infinitybox 20-Circuit Kit. It it included in the box and tells you the wire colors that connect to your switches and to your switched outputs. This is a really important document so let’s spend a few minutes reviewing it.

All of the MASTERCELL input wires and POWERCELL output wires are color coded. The same is true for the inMOTION output harnesses. You are going to use the Configuration Sheet to pair these input and output wires to their switches and the outputs.

Depending on the kit that you ordered and the accessories that you have, your configuration sheet is going to be unique to your system. Likewise, you’ll have a configuration sheet that is specific to you if we did custom programming for your system. We also have different configuration sheets for where the engine is located in the car. The Front-Engine configuration is our most common and is probably the most self-explanatory. This is used for cars where the engine is in the front of the car. The outputs for the ignition and starter are on the front POWERCELL.

If you are building a mid-engine or rear-engine car, you’d use the Rear-Engine configuration. The outputs for the ignition and starter are on the rear POWERCELL.

We also have specific configurations for component cars made by Factory Five. These include kits specifically configured for the Hot Rod, the GTM and the 818. These are based on things that we have learned from hundreds of systems that we sold into guys building these cars. If you’re building the MK4 Roadster or the Type 65 Coupe, you’d use the standard Front-Engine configuration.

This link will take you to the different configuration sheets for our Infinitybox system.

If you have lost your configuration sheet and need help locating the correct one, click here to contact our team for support.

Let’s take a look at an example. This picture from a configuration sheet showing the details for the Headlights. Click on this image to blow it up to see the detail.

Example of headlight wiring details from the Infinitybox configuration sheet

The first column is Function. This describes what is being controlled. You’ll see that there are rows for your ignition, starter solenoid, head lights, parking lights, high-beams, horn, cooling fan, turn signals, 4-ways and brake lights. There are also rows that marked as OPEN. These are generic and can be used for any other accessory that you have in your car.

The next column is Switch Input. This is the number that we use to identify the MASTERCELL inputs. There are 48 inputs on a MASTERCELL. Please note that the input number does not line up with the cavity marking on the input connectors. Click on this link to get a document that connects the MASTERCELL input number to the cavity marking on the connector. The MASTERCELL input wires are going to connect to the switches in your car. We’ll talk about that in a later post.

The next column is MASTERCELL Connector. There are two input connectors for a MASTERCELL, each has 24 inputs. The majority of your inputs will be on the A connector which plugs in the socket above the MASTERCELL screen. For systems with accessories like inMOTION and additional POWERCELLs, you will be using the B connector which is located below the MASTERCELL screen. Some kits do not come with this MASTERCELL B harness.

The next column is POWERCELL Address. This tells you which POWERCELL has the output that will turn on with that input. In the case of our headlight example, the POWERCELL address is 1. This means that the headlight output is on the front POWERCELL. You will see that there are some rows with POWERCELL address that say 1:2. This means that outputs on both POWERCELL 1 and POWERCELL 2 will turn on with this input. Examples include parking lights, turn signals and 4-ways. This link will show you how to set your POWERCELL addresses.

The next column is POWERCELL Connector. Just like the MASTERCELL, there is an A & B output connector on the POWERCELLs. In the case of our headlight example, the headlight output is on the B POWERCELL connector. Your manual will show you which output harness plugs into which socket on the POWERCELL.

Next you get the Personality column. This describes how the output will act when the input is turned on. This separate blog post will get you more information on output personalities. Click here to see it. In the case of the headlight example, the output will track the input and it will soft-start.

Next you get the POWERCELL Output column. This describes the number of the output on the POWERCELL that is turned on with the input on that row. For our headlights, that is output number 5.

The last two columns are the most important and most practical. Ignoring everything to the left, these two columns tell you the MASTERCELL input wire color and the POWERCELL output wire color. For the headlights, you are going to connect the White wire with the Green tracer to the headlight switch. You are going then take the White wire from the POWERCELL and connect that to your headlights. When you turn on the headlight switch, the White-Green wire will get grounded by the switch. The MASTERCELL sees this input turn. It sends a command to the POWERCELL to turn on the headlight output. This is the white wire.

This is one of the areas where our Infinitybox system is dramatically different from a traditional wiring harness. Your switches connect to the MASTERCELL. Your lights, fans, pumps, ECU’s, starter solenoid and other outputs connect to the POWERCELL.

There is a video on our YouTube channel that goes through the configuration sheet in more detail. You can catch this video below.

Please don’t hesitate to reach out to our team with questions about the configuration sheet and how to read it.

Picture of CAN cable being plugged into Infinitybox POWERCELL

Routing the CAN Cable

June 10, 2016/1 Comment/in Wiring /by admin

Picture of the Infinitybox 3-Way CAN Cable

Now it is time for routing the CAN cable through the 1967 Mustang. As we’ve described before, our Infinitybox system is different from a traditional wiring harness. We distribute switches and outputs throughout the car using our MASTERCELLs, POWERCELLs and inMOTION Cells. Instead of running power through large wires from every switch to the outputs, we pass data through small wires.

Our system works using something called CAN. That stands for Controller Area Network. It is the vehicle bus standard that was created to allow different controllers to communicate on a common protocol. You can read more about it by clicking this link. CAN has been around since the early 1980’s and is used in all modern passenger cars and commercial trucks.

The OEM’s use this technology to reduce weight of harnesses, simplify wiring and get more functions that you could from just a simple relay. Our Infinitybox system brings these exact features and benefits to anyone building a race car, restoring a vehicle or manufacturing commercial trucks.

Just because a system has CAN doesn’t necessarily mean that it can communicate with other CAN systems. The term CAN is pretty generic. It is the protocol that is the important part. For our aftermarket systems, we use a proprietary protocol that follows the CAN 2.0b standard. This lets us get much more control and features in our systems. For our commercial vehicle systems, we use J1939. This lets our hardware communicate with other J1939 peripherals and systems in the vehicle.

The CAN signals are passed between the MASTERCELL, POWERCELLs, inMOTION Cells and other modules through two wires in the CAN cable. Once a second, the MASTERCELL sends a command out to all of the cells attached to the network to check in. The blue heartbeat light on the cells is the confirmation that the cells are communicating. When you step on your brake pedal, turn on your ignition or turn on any other switch connected to the system, the MASTERCELL instantaneously sends out a command on the CAN network to the target cell. This signal is sent and received in a few milliseconds.

In the CAN cable, there are the two CAN wires. There is also a red power wire and a black ground wire. This is how the MASTERCELL gets is power and ground. This link will take you to a separate blog post talking in more detail about the anatomy of a CAN cable.

If you have a 20-Circuit Harness Kit, you get a 3-way CAN cable. This has a CAN plug on each end and one spliced about 1/3 of the way along the length of the cable. In you have one of our 10-Circuit Harness Kits, you get a 2-way CAN cable. This has a CAN plug on each end.

Our customer started at the back of the car. They plugged the long end of the CAN cable into one of the CAN ports on the POWERCELL. Both of these ports are identical so it doesn’t matter which you choose. They ran the cable along the driver’s side of the car up to the MASTERCELL, through a channel under the door sill. They plugged the CAN plug that is in the middle of the cable into the MASTERCELL then ran the short length to the front POWERCELL.

In your kit, there are two accessory plugs that are very important. The both look like this. Please note that the plugs in some kits may be yellow. Others may be cream-colored.

Infinitybox CAN sealing plug

There is a difference between the two plugs. One is just a seal to plug the unused CAN port in your system. This must be installed to keep dirt, debris, moisture and water from entering your cell. The second is a CAN terminator. It is marked with an “R” on the top. This is also a seal to plug up an unused CAN port but it also does something important. There is a resistor in the connector that balances the impedance of the CAN transmission line. This terminating resistor must be plugged in to the cell that is on the longest length of CAN cable from the MASTERCELL. You system will not work correctly without this terminating resistor. In the case of our customer’s 1967 Mustang, the resistor is mounted in the rear POWERCELL. This picture shows the CAN cable connected and the terminating resistor installed.

Picture of POWERCELL with CAN cable in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system

This picture shows the CAN cable connected to the MASTERCELL.

Picture of MASTERCELL installed in 1967 Mustang with CAN cable connected

This leads to one of our favorite pictures ever. Take a look at this.

Picture of power and CAN cables running to the back of a 1967 Mustang wired with Infinitybox

This is the entire bundle of wire running from the back of the car to the front. Yes, there is a separate starter cable running from the battery to the starter solenoid and there is fuel wire sender wire bundled in with the CAN cable. Outside of that, the two 8-AWG power cables and the CAN cable are all you need to control everything in the back of the car. This wire is run through the channel under the driver’s door sill.

There are a few more points to hit about the CAN cable.

First, a lot of customers ask if they can lengthen or shorten the CAN cables. Depending on where you mount you cells, you may need different lengths. The answer is “YES”. This link will get you more details on CAN cable lengths. We also get questions about custom, pre-made CAN cables. We also do that. Contact our sales team to discuss details.

Second, there are some considerations that you need to make when you run your CAN cables through the car. The CAN protocol is very noise immune. There are things that we do in hardware and in software to make sure that this is a very reliable signal. That being said, you want to keep your CAN cables (and all of your other electronics in the car) away from the high-voltage coil wires for your ignition system.

Lastly, there is an addendum sheet that comes with any kit that uses the 3-way CAN cable. The CAN cable provides power and ground to the MASTERCELL. Depending on the way your car is assembled, there may be slight differences between the ground potential at the front POWERCELL and the rear POWERCELL. These need to be isolated. You must cut the red and black wires in the one of the lengths of your CAN cable. Click on this link to view this addendum.

Click on this link to contact our team with questions or comments about this post.

Plugging in POWERCELL battery input harness in Infinitybox system installed in 1967 Mustang

Power Input Cables

June 9, 2016/1 Comment/in Wiring /by admin

Here’s the next step in wiring the 1967 Mustang with our Infinitybox system. You need to run the power input cables from the Mega fuse holder and connect them to the POWERCELLs. There are 4 power input cables included in your kit. They look like this.

POWERCELL Battery Input Harness

These cables have the mating connector that plugs into the circular 8-mm sockets on the POWERCELL. These cables are 8-AWG and are jacketed in high-durability TXL insulation. Each POWERCELL gets two of these cables. This lets you supply a total of 120-Amps to the POWERCELL.

Remember how the POWERCELLs work. They are mounted locally in the car. Your functions like lights, fans, pumps, ignition and starter connect to the POWERCELL. The MASTERCELL sends commands to this POWERCELL through the CAN cable to turn these function on and off. In addition to the CAN cable that sends commands, the POWERCELL needs to get power from the battery for your switched functions. These primary input cables supply the power to the POWERCELL.

For this process, make sure that you have disconnected the positive cable from the battery. Plug the round connector on the end of each of the primary input cable into the POWERCELL and run the cable through the car. All three of the round connector ports on the POWERCELL are the same. You can pick any two of these to plug the cables into.

The other end of this cable needs to connect to the terminals on the Mega fuse holders installed earlier in this process. Cut the cable to length, strip it and crimp on the 8-AWG 5/16″ ring terminals that are included with your 10 or 20-Circuit kit. Make sure that you are using the right tool to make these crimps. Poor crimps cause many problems down the road. This link will take you to a simple tool sold by Del City that can be used for all of your primary power cables and battery cables.

We also strongly recommend covering the exposed area of the ring terminals with heat-shrink tubing. This will minimize exposed metal areas that can lead to short circuits in the car. Del City or Waytek are great sources for heat-shrink tubing.

If you need to, you can lengthen the primary power cables. You can use an 8-AWG crimped butt connector to splice in another length of cable or you can solder the strands together. Done correctly, either are a acceptable way to lengthen these cables.

This picture shows plugging the primary power cables into the rear POWERCELL in our Mustang project.

Plugging in POWERCELL battery input harness in Infinitybox system installed in 1967 Mustang

This picture shows the two primary power cables plugged into the front POWERCELL.

Front POWERCELL Mounted in 1967 Mustang

This picture shows the primary power cables connected to the Mega fuse holder block in near the battery in the rear of the car.

Assembled Mega Fuse block in 1967 Mustang wired with our Infinitybox system

Each POWERCELL has three power input ports on it. You are going to use two of these. To keep the cell sealed, you must plug the power input dummy plug into the unused port. This is included in your kit.

Sealing plug for POWERCELL battery input port.

You can also use one of our POWERPLUGs in the open port.

Power Plug

The POWERPLUG is a very easy way to get fused constant battery power from the POWERCELL. You can use this to power accessories like engine controllers, transmission controllers, audio and LED tail light controllers.

Now that you have the primary power cables properly connected to the primary fuses and the POWERCELLs, you can move on to the next step. Stay tuned for the next post. If you have questions in the meantime, you can contacts us by clicking this link.

MASTERCELL mounted in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox System

Mounting Cells

June 8, 2016/1 Comment/in Wiring /by admin

So, here’s where we are in the wiring process for our customer’s 1967 Mustang. They mounted the primary fuses and ran power from the battery. Now it is time for mounting cells in the car. They are using our 20-Circuit Harness kit, which includes one MASTERCELL and two POWERCELLs. The MASTERCELL connects to the switches in the car (ignition, starter, turn signals, lights, cooling fan sensor, etc.). The POWERCELLs are where the power comes from to turn on the powered things like the ignition, starter solenoid, turn signals, lights, cooling fan and other accessories.

The Infinitybox system works differently from other wiring harnesses. With a traditional wiring harness, you have one box with fuses and relays in the center of the car with wire flowing everywhere from this center point. With the Infinitybox system, you distribute the wiring through the car. This lets you put the power distribution where you need it to keep the runs of wire short.

The MASTERCELL is going to connect to all of your switches. Most of these are located around the steering wheel. That is where you are going to want to mount it. There are two POWERCELLs in this kit. One for the front of the car and one for the rear. You want to mount these POWERCELLs near the things that you are turning on and off. This keeps the runs of wire short and makes installation easier in the car.

We always suggest that customers start by walking around the car and make a list of the switched electrical functions in the car. Our configuration sheets are a great planning tool for this. This link will take you to the standard Front-Engine configuration that is our most popular. Outside of the normal things like lights, ignition, turn signals, fuel pumps, horns and fans, think about the other things that need switched power like amps, extra lights, transmission controllers and other custom features.

Each cell has 4 mounting points in the corners of the housings. These are designed for a 1/4″ bolt. Our preferred mounting method is to use a 1/4″ X 5/8″ shoulder screw. The advantage with a shoulder screw is that you can’t over tighten the screw and crush the mounting point. If you are using a traditional bolt, take care not to over-tighten it and crush plastic collar.

Here are few things to consider when mounting cells. For the easiest install, you want your MASTERCELL to be as close to the switches as possible. You can mount your MASTERCELL in the glove box, in the center console, behind, the dash or behind a kick panel. In the case of this 1967 Mustang, the customer mounted the MASTERCELL above and to the left of the pedal box. Here’s a good picture.

Infinitybox MASTERCELL mounted next to the pedal box in a 1967 Mustang Resto Mod

This location is out of the way but still gives them easy access to the MASTERCELL. The screen on the MASTERCELL is a very important diagnostic tool in the system. You won’t need to get to this often, but you want to make sure that you can get to it when you need it. Also if you have our inLINK radio, the antenna is in the MASTERCELL. You want to make sure that it isn’t buried in the car to get the most range on the key fobs. There are really no other things to worry about when mounting the MASTERCELL outside of keeping the CAN cables and input wires away from the high-voltage wires on your ignition system. This is true for any piece of electronics in the car, not just your Infinitybox hardware.

The input wires from the MASTERCELL will connect this cell to all of the switches in the car. We’ll cover that part in later parts of this install series.

The POWERCELLs are next. You want to put these close to the things that you are powering. In the case of the front POWERCELL, this includes your dash power, ignition, starter solenoid, head lights, high-beams, turn signals, running lights, horn and cooling fan. In the case of the rear POWERCELL, this includes the tail lights, brake lights, fuel pump, reverse lights, turn signals and audio in the trunk. Remember that your POWERCELLs contain the fuses that protect the wires in your harnesses. You want to have easy access to these cells in case one of these fuses opens. There are also diagnostic indicators on the POWERCELLs that give you a wealth of information about how the system is operating. You want to have good access to the cell to see these indicator lights.

The customer mounted the rear POWERCELL in the driver’s side corner of the trunk. Here’s a good picture.

Rear POWERCELL in trunk of 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

They fabricated a mounting plate to support it nicely. Here’s a close up shot of the cell and the mounting plate.

Rear POWERCELL mounted in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

This POWERCELL will be hidden behind a trim panel in the trunk. From this location, the runs of output wire to the turn signals, brake lights, fuel pump and running lights is very short and easy to install.

This customer did something unique in their mounting of the front POWERCELL. They wanted a completely clean engine compartment so they mounted the POWERCELL behind the driver’s fender. See this picture.

Location of front POWERCELL in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

They fabricated a sealed door inside the wheel well. They can turn the wheels to the left, open the panel and get easy access to the POWERCELL if they need. Here’s a closer shot of the mounting location.

Front POWERCELL Mounted in 1967 Mustang

This location gives them very short runs of wire from the POWERCELL to their ECU, starter solenoid, lights, turn signals, cooling fan, horn and dash power.

Depending on your car and your project, you can mount the POWERCELLs practically anywhere in the car. The cells are rated to 125 degrees Celsius (260 F). This means that you can mount them under the hood. They were designed and tested to survive the temperature, shock and chemical exposure of the under-hood environment. Like the MASTERCELL and any other piece of electronics in your car, you want to keep them clear of the ignition coils and high-voltage ignition wiring. You also want to keep them out of the direct radiated heat of your exhaust headers.

Now that mounting cells in the car is complete, the next post will cover running primary power from the Mega fuses to the POWERCELLs. Stay tuned for this next post. If you have questions or comments, please click on this link to contact us.

Infinitybox 1967 Wiring Install- Location of Mega Fuse Block

Mounting Fuses

June 7, 2016/1 Comment/in Wiring /by admin

Here’s the first step in our 1967 Mustang wiring project. It is mounting the fuses that protect the power feeds going to the POWERCELLs. In our 10 and 20-Circuit Harness Kits, we give you a block of Littelfuse Mega fuses to protect the 8-AWG cables that power the cells. In our Express Racing Kits and with our inMOTION cells, we give you a JCASE holder instead of the Mega block.

These fuses serve a very important purpose. They protect the 8-AWG cables from short-circuits or low overloads. The fuse in any circuit is supposed to be the weak link, electrically. They are thermally operating devices that are designed to open and clear the circuit if too much current flows. Wires can be fuses too, which is a bad thing. If too much current flows through a wire, it will heat up. As the wire heats up, the insulation can melt causing fire or other damage in the car.

As mentioned above, the fuses ultimately protect against two things. The most common is a short circuit to ground. If the insulation on the wire were to become damaged and the conductor were to touch the chassis, you have a very low resistance path to ground. The insulation can become damaged over time by rubbing against a sharp edge or can be connected to ground quickly in an accident. You can also accidentally drop a tool across an open set of terminals and make a good short to ground. (We’ll admit that we’ve done that before.) The second thing that the fuse protects against is a low-overload. These are usually resistive connections to ground. They are not as common as a short circuit.

Car batteries have a tremendous amount of stored power in them. A low resistance path to ground will allow a lot of current to flow. This current flow causes heating in the wire. As mentioned above, the fuse is designed to open (blow) before the wire gets hot enough to cause damage. The Mega fuses in your kit are sized at 60-Amps. A 60-Amp fuse is the proper rating to protect an 8-AWG cable.

We have many different blog posts about fusing. Here is a good one for your reference.

In the case of this 1967 Mustang, the battery is in the trunk. The customer mounted the Mega fuse block against the trunk wall, towards the driver’s side of the car. Here’s a picture of the fuse block mounted in the trunk.

Location of Mega Fuse Block in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

You want to make sure that the Mega fuse block is securely mounted in the car. There are mounting holes on the top and bottom of the holders. We recommend using nuts and bolts with lock-washers to mount this to a flat surface like the one shown in the picture above. Self-tapping screws will work too but aren’t as reliable as a bolt & nut with a lock-washer.

You want to have reasonable access to the primary fuses in the car. Over its lifetime, you should really never have to change these fuses. If you ever were to blow one, that means that something bad has happened. You have either been in an accident and one of the cables has broken to ground or the insulation on one of the cables was worn over time.

You want to mount the fuses as close to the battery as possible. The purpose of this is to minimize the length of unprotected wire in the circuit. The unprotected wire is the wire between the power source and the first fuse. We give you the Mega fuse block, the ring terminals, the 8-AWG cables and a 4-AWG cable in your kit. You use the 4-AWG cable to connect the battery to the buss bar on the fuse block.

This picture shows the 4-AWG wire connected to the buss bar on the Mega fuse block. The customer crimped the included ring terminal on the end of the 4-AWG wire and connected that to the buss bar. The other side of this 4-AWG cable connects to the positive side of the battery. This connection can be made directly to the battery, to a primary disconnect switch or to our inRESERVE battery management solenoid. Please note that we strongly recommend a battery disconnect, either a manual switch or our inRESERVE kit.

Also, note that they used heat shrink tubing to protect the exposed part of the terminal. This is recommended to reduce the chance of shorting this side of the fuse block to the chassis.

Primary battery cable connected to Mega Fuse block in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

Just a quick warning about connecting the Mega fuse and 8-AWG power feeds. You want to connect all of the POWERCELL feeds back to the same Mega fuse holder. This Mega fuse holder should be connected to the battery either directly or through a disconnect solenoid. You must not connect power to your Infinitybox system to the starter cable at the starter motor. This is our recommendation and that of most other electronics manufacturers. There are surges and transients associated with the starter motor that could interfere with your ability to start the engine if you are powering the system from the starter cable at the starter motor.

Once the 4-AWG cable is connected, you need to connect the four 8-AWG feeds that go to the POWERCELLs. Each POWERCELL needs two of these feeds. In the case of this Mustang, two of the 8-AWG feeds route to the POWERCELL in the trunk. The other two 8-AWG feeds run to the front of the car to connect to the front POWERCELL. This picture shows the 8-AWG cable connected and the covers snapped in place on the Mega fuse block. You must keep these covers in place to protect the terminals on the fuses from getting accidentally shorted to ground. (Again, we’ve done that before with a wrench.)

Assembled Mega Fuse block in 1967 Mustang wired with our Infinitybox system

Make sure that all of the bolted connections are tight. Don’t over-tighten these bolts. The recommended bolting torque is 10 foot-pounds. Once that’s done, you’ve finished the job of mounting the fuses. Stay tuned for the next step in the process of wiring a 1967 Mustang with our Infinitybox 20-Circuit Harness Kit. Click on this link to contact us with comments and questions.

Mustang Install

June 6, 2016/0 Comments/in Wiring /by admin

One of our customers just sent us a series of pictures showing a very clean install of our Infinitybox system in a 1967 Mustang. We wanted to take this opportunity to breakdown the process of wiring your car with our system into its basic steps. This Mustang Install series will give you a chance to see the simplicity and ease of wiring with Infinitybox. Plus, you will get a chance to learn about some of the features and benefits of our system over traditional wiring harnesses. We will start the series with the installation of the 20-Circuit Kit in the car. There will be follow up blog posts that will go through these steps:

You can click on any of the steps above to read more details of the wiring process.

The car is a 1967 Mustang done up as a resto-mod. All of the suspension components are modern. They are using a 4.6L modular motor. It will have new heating and air-conditioning. With all of the upgrades, the customer wanted the most modern and flexible wiring system for this car.

Our 20-Circuit Kit is replacing a traditional wiring harness. Instead of one centrally located fuse & relay box, there are separate modules installed in the car where they are needed. All of the switches wire locally to the MASTERCELL mounted under the dash. The tail lights, brake lights, fuel pump, turn signals and audio in the rear of the car wires to the local POWERCELL. The head lights, high-beams, ignition, starter solenoid, horn, fan, parking lights, turn signals and dash power come from the POWERCELL mounted in the front of the car. The only cable running from the front to the back of the car is power and the CAN cable connecting the cells.

Keep watching for updates on our blog to see the details of this Mustang install. You can contact us with questions or comments by clicking this link.