Page 13 – Infinitybox

Updating inMOTION

October 11, 2016/in Software /by admin

One of the advantages of our Infinitybox system is that it can always be updated. We have added a lot of new features and functions over the years. The earliest systems that we sold can be updated to use these new features. In some cases, these updates require a simple hardware change that we need to do here. In the majority of these changes, it is a simple software update that can be done in your shop, garage or in the vehicle in the field. Most of the changes are done to the MASTERCELL but in some cases, the POWERCELLs and inMOTION cells need to be updated. This post is going to talk about updating inMOTION.

Before you get too far, 99.99% of our customers will never need to update inMOTION in the field. This blog post is intended to have this documented for the 0.01% of them that will. The only reason why you’d need to update inMOTION would be if we have created something custom for you in terms of the current levels for the express functions. In the overwhelming majority of cases, you can stop reading here. You need to do nothing with the code on your inMOTION unless explicitly directed by one of our technical support engineers.

inMOTION is different from a POWERCELL in a few ways. inMOTION uses special polarity reversing relays instead of MOSFETs. Also, inMOTION monitors the current flowing to the loads that it is powering. inMOTION is always comparing the actual current to a learned value. If the actual current exceeds the learned value, it shuts the output off. One of the last steps of setting up inMOTION is to train it. This is detailed in the instruction manual for inMOTION. When you update inMOTION, there are a few extra steps that you need to follow because of the current monitoring and the way inMOTION learns its current draw.

Our technical support team will let you know what cells in your system will need to be updated if we are changing the way your system operates. If you are told to update inMOTION, we will email you a new file. Please follow these steps when updating inMOTION.

Power down the entire system.
Disconnect CAN cable and output harnesses from the inMOTION cell (just leave the power connectors)
Unlike the other cells, the inMOTION cell needs power to program it, so power up the 12V feed to the cell.
Connect the programmer to the inMOTION cell and browse for the inMOTION file
Click program and wait for programmer to finish.
Once the programming is complete, remove the programmer and the blue LED on the inMOTION cell should be blinking quickly. Stop here if the Blue LED is not flashing quickly.
Remove power from the system and re-connect the CAN cable to the inMOTION (do not reconnect any motor loads yet)
Power up the entire system, wait about 10 seconds
Press and hold the train button (S11) on the inMOTION cell until the blue LED is on steady and then release. This process nulls out the current sensors in the system.
Wait for the inMOTION to cycle all of the relays.
Leaving the power on, reconnect the motor loads to the cell. The blue LED should be doing a double flash heartbeat.
Position the motors to the middle of their travel using the manual buttons on the inMOTION cell.
Press and hold the train button (S11) until the blue LED is on steady and then release. The inMOTION will cycle all of the motors and learn the current profiles.
The blue LED should have the regular heartbeat now and everything should be ready to go.

Click on this link to contact our technical support team with any questions about updating inMOTION.

Atomic EFI

October 11, 2016/in Wiring /by admin

We’ve blogged before about how to power many different EFI systems with Infinitybox. Examples include the Ford Coyote ECU, the GM LS ECU, the Holley Dominator, the FAST EZ-EFI and many others. This post is going to cover how to wire the Atomic EFI system from MSD.

Here’s what MSD says about their Atomic EFI:

“The Atomic EFI provides the performance and driveability benefits that you expect from fuel injection. Quick starts, smooth idle and great throttle response just to name a few. Combine the fact that the Atomic will support ignition timing through the ECU and you have a win-win combination. Initial timing is handled through a compact handheld monitor where you simply answer a few car guy questions about your engine and you’re off and running!”

Just like any other EFI system, wiring it with our Infinitybox 10 or 20-Circuit Harness Kit is very easy. You get several advantages over wiring with a traditional wiring harness.

You run less wire in the car. The ECU sits behind the dash and connects to the MASTERCELL. The cooling fan and fuel pump are wired to their local POWERCELLs. You’re not running wires from the ECU all over the car.
You can eliminate the need for relays and external fuse holders. The POWERCELLs are your relays. Each output is fused inside the POWERCELL.
You get security and immobilizer functions in your Infinitybox system. You don’t have to add a separate alarm system to keep unwanted people from starting your car.
You can get cooling fan timing and delays right in the Infinitybox system. You don’t need to add separate controller modules.

Before you connect your Infinitybox system to your Atomic EFI system, you must completely understand the instructions from MSD. Click on this link to get to the manual for their Atomic EFI PN 2910 – Throttle Body Kit. This post is going to show you how to wire the key-on power to the Power Controller. It will also show you how to wire ground, constant battery power, the fuel pump trigger and the cooling fan trigger. See the MSD manual for the rest of the electrical connections to their harness.

This diagram will show you the details of wiring your MSD Atomic EFI system to your Infinitybox system.

Picture of wiring diagram showing how to wire the MSD Atomic EFI Power Module with the Infinitybox 20-Circuit Kit

To start, you need to connect constant power and ground to the MSD Power Module harness. MSD recommends connecting the large red wire directly to the battery. The ground wire should get connected to the chassis through a metal-to-metal connection.

The small red wire is the key-on power wire to the Power Module. When you key is in the on or start position, you should have battery voltage on this wire. The small red wire in the MSD harness is going to connect to the ignition output wire on your POWERCELL. Check the configuration sheet that came with your kit for the correct color and connector orientation for all of the POWERCELL connections.

There are two wires in the MSD Power Module harness for cooling fan triggers. The pink wire is the primary and the tan wire is for the secondary cooling fan. Both of these wires are intended to ground a relay coil to turn on the fan. You can connect them directly to the MASTERCELL inputs. The MASTERCELL inputs are expecting a ground trigger to turn on the inputs. You must put a diode in-line between the Power Module fan trigger wires and the MASTERCELL input wires. This should be a 1N4001 diode. The orientation of this diode is critical for this to work properly. See the diagram above for correct orientation of the diode.

Once you have the MASTERCELL input wired to the Power Module for the cooling fan trigger, you need to connect the POWERCELL output to your cooling fan. See the configuration sheet that came with your kit for the proper wire color. If you want to use a secondary cooling fan, you can use any of the OPEN outputs on your system.

There is a large orange wire on the Power Module harness for the fuel pump. This wire puts out a positive signal for the fuel pump. You will need to invert this signal to a ground signal to work properly with the MASTERCELL. You can use a relay to do this. This link will show you how. The easier way to do this is to use one of our inVERT Mini‘s.

Once you have the MASTERCELL input for the fuel pump properly connected to the MSD Power Module fuel pump output, you need to wire your POWERCELL output to your fuel pump. Again, your configuration sheet will shows which wire to use.

That’s it. All of your relays and fuses are built into the Infinitybox system. Once you follow these steps, you’re ready to power up your system and start tuning the engine.

You can download a PDF copy of this wiring diagram by clicking this link.

Contact our technical support team with any questions related to wiring the MSD Atomic EFI system with your Infinitybox system.

GTR Start Stop Button

October 7, 2016/in Wiring /by admin

In previous posts, we showed how to take the Engine Start button from a Honda S2000 and use it with the One-Button Start feature built into the Infinitybox system. A single push of this button turns on your ignition and cranks the starter. Just like a lot of modern cars, you can get this feature in your hot-rod, resto-mod or kit car. The Honda S2000 button is pretty popular with our customers. So is the Nissan GTR Start Stop Button. It is very well built, has a great feel to it, mounts easily in practically any dash and works well with our Infinitybox system. The GTR Start Stop Button has the added feature of some extra lights built into the switch that can indicate when the engine is running.

You can purchase the GTR Start Stop Button from many different on-line retailers. When you buy it, you want to make sure that you get the pig-tail harness that plugs into the back of the switch. Having this harness will make your life easier. Different harnesses may have different wire colors in them so you want to pay attention to the numbers of the pins in the connector on the back of the switch. These numbers are molded into the plastic. You may need a magnifying glass to see them. There are 8 pins on the back of the switch. We’re only going to use a few of them.

Remember how the MASTERCELL inputs work. You simply connect the input to ground through your switch. When the MASTERCELL sees this ground signal, it starts the process of turning a POWERCELL output on. Since there is very little current required to turn on a MASTERCELL input, you can safely use a switch like the GTR Start Stop Button to control outputs with no extra relays.

This diagram shows a simplified schematic for the GTR button and which wires connect to the pins on the back of the connector.

Picture of wiring diagram showing how to connect the Nissan GTR Start Stop button to the Infinitybox system to manage the One-Button Start

You can also tap into the Ignition output on your POWERCELL and bring that to pin 8 on the switch. You then need to ground pin 7. When you wire it like this, the ON light built into the switch will light up to indicate that your ignition is on.

When you wire the GTR Start Stop button to the Infinitybox one-button start input, you simply press and hold the button to start the car. When you press it, the POWERCELL turns on the ignition output then waits for one second. After that, the POWERCELL turns on the starter output to crank the engine. After the engine starts, you release the button. Your engine is running. To shut down the engine, you simply press and release the button again. Just like most new cars.

You can download a PDF version of this wiring diagram by clicking this link.

Please let us know if you have questions or comments about wiring any car or truck with our Infinitybox system.

Battery Isolator

October 6, 2016/in Wiring /by admin

Our customers continue to add electrical content to their cars and trucks. The more electronics they add, the more current they consume. This is especially true when you are adding powerful stereo systems with sub-woofers and high-wattage amplifiers. A lot of our customers will add multiple batteries to their electrical systems to increase the available power. To add multiple batteries safely and get the most reliability out of them, we always recommend adding a battery isolator between them to that they charge and discharge safely. This post is going to go through the details of battery isolators and why they are critical to multiple battery systems.

In most cases, you want to have a battery in your car or truck that powers all of the main functions. These functions include your ignition, starter, lighting, fans, fuel pumps, horn and turn signals. You also may want to add a second battery just to power the high-wattage demand of your stereo. This second battery would power the amp and sub-woofer. You may also want this second battery to power any other A/V equipment like TV’s and gaming consoles. This way you can take your car to a show or take it tailgating, use your stereo and not risk running down the main battery that starts the car. The problem is that in some cases, two batteries wired together can cause problems. If one battery is weaker than the other, it can rob charge from the stronger battery. This picture shows how this happens.

Diagram showing the issue of using two batteries in parallel without a battery isolator.

A weaker battery can drain a healthy charged battery in your vehicle.

The simple solution is to add a battery isolator between the two batteries. Examples of good battery isolators are manufactured by Littelfuse . These can be purchased at companies like Del City and Waytek Wire. This picture shows the battery isolator wired between two batteries.

Diagram showing how a battery isolator works with two batteries

The battery isolator stops current from flowing between the two batteries while allowing both to charge safely from the alternator. This picture shows how most battery isolators are wired between the alternator and the bank of batteries.

Schematic for wiring dual batteries with a battery isolator

When you’re using our Infinitybox system, that is going to get powered from the primary vehicle wiring. All of your accessories like amps, sub-woofers, inverters and winches will get their 12-volt power from the second battery. If the accessories drain the second battery, this drain will not pull down the primary battery.

Click this link to contact our technical support team with questions or comments about this post.

3-Wire Alternator

October 6, 2016/in Wiring /by admin

Here’s a quick blog post showing you how to wire a 3-Wire Alternator with our Infinitybox system. When guys are updating their electrical systems in their cars, they have lots of choices. One of those choices is between a 1-wire and 3-wire alternator. Most cars originally came with a 3-wire alternator.

As its name implies, the 3-wire alternator has three electrical connections to it. The first is the large lug that connects to the battery. This is the main current feed that charges the battery and powers the car when the engine is running. There are two smaller terminals, usually spade terminals on the top of the alternator. One of these is the sense terminal. You connect the output of the alternator back to this terminal so that it can sense and regulate the output voltage. The other terminal is the exciter. This is what excites the field of the alternator.

The following diagram shows the wiring for a typical 3-wire alternator connected to our Infinitybox system. Please refer to the manual and wiring diagram that came with your alternator for more specific details.

Picture of wiring diagram showing how to connect 3-wire alternator to the Infinitybox system.

Here are the important parts of this diagram.

First, you need to connect the alternator directly to the positive terminal on the battery. This is how the battery gets charged when the engine is running. It is very important to make sure that nothing interrupts this feed to the battery. You should never install a disconnect switch between the alternator and the battery. If the alternator is ever disconnected from the battery when it is charging, you get something called a load dump and that’s a bad thing. Read this blog post for more information.

Next, you must wire the sense terminal. Check the manual that came with your alternator. Usually, this is a direct connection from the alternator output back to the sense terminal.

Lastly, you need to wire the exciter. This is where the charge light gets connected into the system. One end of the charge light connects to the output of the POWERCELL that is powering the ignition in the car. The other end of the light connects to the exciter terminal on the alternator. You also need to install a diode on the POWERCELL side of the light. This diode blocks current from feeding back into the ignition system. Without this diode, the engine will continue to run even though you have turned off the ignition output. The orientation of this diode is critical, check the diagram for more details.

Here’s how the charge light works. When the ignition is on, there is 12-volts on the POWERCELL side of the light. Without the engine running and the alternator turning, there is no voltage on the alternator side. Current flows through the light and turns it on.

When the engine is running, you have battery voltage on the POWERCELL side of the light. Since the alternator is turning, you also have battery voltage on the exciter wire from the alternator. There is no net voltage drop across the bulb so it does not light.

If your alternator stops generating current when the ignition is on and the engine is running, you back to the first scenario. There is voltage on the POWERCELL side but no voltage on the alternator side. This makes the bulb light and warns you that you have a problem with your alternator.

Please note that this is intended to work with an incandescent light bulb for the charge light. You can do this with LED’s but you must have a bypass resistor so that the exciter will work correctly. See the instructions that came with your 3-wire alternator.

You can download a PDF of this wiring diagram by clicking this link.

Reach out to our technical support group with any questions or comments about this wiring diagram.

Security

October 6, 2016/3 Comments/in Wiring /by admin

We received a great question from a potential customer. He was looking to add the Infinitybox inLINK wireless upgrade to his system and wanted to know how secure it was.

inLINK is a great option for your Infinitybox kit because it easily adds remote control to your wiring system. You get our inLINK radio module and two key fobs. The radio module easily installs in the MASTERCELL. If you purchase inLINK with your kit, we pre-install it for you. If you purchase it later, it is very easy to install yourself. It is completely plug & play with no software required. This link will take you to the instructions to install inLINK in your MASTERCELL.

You can use your Infinitybox inLINK key fobs to control many things including your lighting, popping your doors and expressing-down your windows. Most importantly, inLINK gets you security and alarm functions. When you press the lock button on the inLINK key fob, Infinitybox completely disables the inputs for the ignition, starter and fuel pump. This is done from within the MASTERCELL so it is very secure. If you try to start the car when Infinitybox security is on, you get a clear message on the inSIGHT LCD module alerting you that the car cannot be started. Additionally, you can tie MASTERCELL inputs to switches in your car so that if they are triggered when security is on, you can sound the horn or an external siren. This makes inLINK a very powerful vehicle immobilizer and alarm that is built right into Infinitybox with no additional wiring required.

Since inLINK is the key to the vehicle’s security, the question about the wireless encryption is important. We use Microchip’s KEELOQ hardware and encryption technology for inLINK. This is the exact same technology used in OEM remote entry systems, vehicle alarms, highway toll collection, garage door openers and medical device monitoring.

KEELOQ uses a frequency hopping, 64-bit code system. There are over 4-billion code combinations and every time you press a button, the system randomly generates a new code. The hardware is designed never to react to the same code twice. If you could try each of the different code combinations, it would take you 17-years to go through all of them.

We have our own seed key that is unique to Infinitybox so that other devices using the same KEELOQ technology cannot link to our system.

The Infinitybox inLINK system uses an industry proven, rock-solid technology to ensure reliable transmissions and hack-proof security.

You can learn more about inLINK at this link.

Foot Operated

September 30, 2016/in Wiring /by admin

Customers ask us to help do some unique things electrically in their cars. In most cases, we’re helping their classic car do something that their new car does. We were just asked how to get a foot operated trunk release mechanism. This is a pretty cool request. Everyone has seen the commercials for cars that let you open a trunk or tail gate with only your foot. You wave it under the bumper and the door magically opens.

On one hand, this is pretty simple. You can get a sensor, wire it to your existing wiring harness and get your trunk to pop when you waive your foot under the rear bumper. However, there are a few safety and security concerns that you need to consider. Our Infinitybox system makes managing this really easy.

Before we get to safety and security, let’s talk about sensors. You need some sensor that is going to detect the presence of your foot being waved under the bumper. There are really two different kinds of sensors to use: ultrasonic and infrared. For all intents and purposes, infrared sensors are more cost effective and easier to use in these applications.

The advent of the hacker movement has brought tons of cost effective infrared sensors to the market. You need to find one that is environmentally sealed considering that it will be mounted outside of your car. You also need one that has an adjustable range so that you can set it correctly. This picture shows an example of an infrared sensor found on Amazon. These work by emitting an infrared signal and measuring the amount of light that is reflected back by an object in front of the sensor. You can adjust its sensitivity to get the right range.

Picture of an IR sensor that can be used to sense distances

You need to choose your sensor based on the distance between the underside of your bumper and ground. The sensor above has an adjustable range of 3 to 15 inches. You also want to make sure that the sensor can operate in the 12 to 16-volt DC range. Lastly, you want a 3-wire sensor. This illustration shows typical wiring for these sensors.

Schematic of simple IR sensor used to detect objects

You connect the black wire to ground. You need to get battery voltage to the red wire. The yellow wire is going to connect to an input on your MASTERCELL.

For battery voltage, we recommend powering this off an output on your rear POWERCELL that is on when security is disabled. That way the sensor only has power when you turn off security from inLINK. This will help to reduce the drain on the battery.

The yellow wire is going to a MASTERCELL input to trigger the trunk popper. You have to make sure that the sensor grounds the yellow wire when it is triggered. In most cases, this is called an open collector. Check the literature that came with the sensor or test it with a power supply and a multi meter.

You are going to have to set the range of the sensor to work properly with your car and your bumper. The sensor should be pointing down towards the ground in an area under the bumper that you can easily access with your foot. The sensor will have a screw on it that will allow you to set the sensing distance.

Here’s where our Infinitybox system makes this really easy. There are a few things that you need to consider with a foot operated trunk popper. First, you don’t want the trunk popping randomly as you drive down the road and go over an object. Also, you don’t want anyone else to be able to come up to your car to pop the trunk with their foot if security is enabled.

To handle these two issues, we can program your system so that the trunk popper can only work then the car is in park and when security is disabled.

Here’s how this would work. As you approaching your car, you press the button on your inLINK key fob to disable security. This is going to activate the sensor on the back. If the car is in park, the trunk will pop when you wave your foot under the rear bumper.

You can do the same thing with other doors. You can also do the same thing to control inMOTION outputs to drive a linear actuator to actually raise the trunk when you waive your foot under the rear of the car. This is just a simple example of some of the powerful things that you can do with your car wired with our Infinitybox system.

Click on this link to contact one of our technical support team members to get more details on foot activated trunk poppers or any other option with our Infinitybox system.

S2000

September 28, 2016/1 Comment/in Wiring /by admin

One of the greatest parts of our Infinitybox system is the flexibility of the MASTERCELL inputs. You can use practically any switch in your car. If you want to keep the original OEM switches that came in your car, you can do that. If you want to add new billet switches, you can do that. A lot of our customers like to take switches out of new cars and put them in their classic cars. One of the most popular is taking the Engine Start button from a Honda S2000 and using that to start their engine in their resto-mod, kit car or Pro-Touring build.

Our MASTERCELL inputs trigger POWERCELL outputs when they are connected to ground. This makes wiring switches very easy. Also, it takes very little current to turn on a MASTERCELL input. That means that you can use practically any switch to trigger an input. Click on this link to go to an earlier blog post that talks in more detail about how our MASTERCELL inputs work.

A lot of our customers use the Engine Start button from the Honda S2000. This is a slick looking, big red button with a nice chrome bezel around it. It easily fits in any dash panel. Some of our customers use this as their starter button. They have a separate key switch that turns on their ignition. To start the car, they press and hold the Engine Start button to crank the starter. In other cases, our customers are using this same button with our 1-button start feature. From one button, you press and hold it to turn on the ignition then crank the starter. Click on this link to see an older blog post that talks about hour one one-button start works.

When you pair our 1-button start with our inLINK security features, you can do something pretty cool in the car. Most of our customers who are building Factory Five Roadsters and Hot Rods are using our one button start with a single button on the dash. When they enable security from their inLINK key fob, this completely blocks the ability to start the engine, which is important with an open-top car. As they approach the car, they disable security from inLINK, hop in and press the button on the dash to start the engine.

Wiring the S2000 switch is pretty easy. This picture shows you how to connect the MASTERCELL inputs and ground to the terminals on the back of the switch. You can either use the starter input or the 1-button start input.

Image of wiring details for Honda S2000 Engine Start Button to work with the Infinitybox wiring system.

The Honda S2000 switch also has a light bulb in it. With a simple modification, you can use this to light the switch. Some of our customers will wire it so that the switch lights up when the dash lights are on. Others will wire it so that it is lit when the ignition is on. This picture shows how to modify the printed circuit board inside the switch so that you can use the built-in illumination.

Image of modifications to Honda S2000 Engine Start button for Illumination

This is just an example of how flexible our Infinitybox system can be. You can download a PDF of the S2000 switch wiring by clicking on this link. You can download a PDF showing how to modify the switch to use the illumination by clicking this link.

Please feel free to contact our technical support team with questions on wiring your vehicle with our Infinitybox system.

Central Locking

September 27, 2016/in Wiring /by admin

We created our inMOTION cell about 6 years ago to handle things that need to change direction. From any MASTERCELL input, you can control power windows, lock actuators, exhaust cut-outs and other linear actuators. What makes inMOTION unique is the fact that it changes polarity from within the cell. This means that you don’t need special relays to change the polarity of the current flowing to your window motors or lock actuators. inMOTION does that for you. You can also control any of the inMOTION outputs from our inLINK key fobs and any smart device through inTOUCH NET. This post is going to show you how to wire lock actuators with Central Locking to the MASTERCELL and inMOTION cell.

There are lots of ways to control door lock actuators. In most cases, our customers want to unlock their doors when they disable security from their inLINK key fobs. That’s easy. From the inside of the car, they usually want switches that lock and unlock the doors. That’s easy. Another way to handle this is to use the central locking feature built into the MES 5-Wire Door Lock Actuator. Our good friends at Electric-Life sell these. You can see them at this link.

These lock actuators do two things. First, they lock and unlock the doors. That’s pretty basic. They also have switches built into them to control central locking. When you pull up on the door lock knob, it pulls on the lock actuator mechanism and closes a switch internally. This switch sends a signal to the Infinitybox MASTERCELL to pulse the lock output on inMOTION to unlock the rest of the doors. Pushing down on this same door lock knob closes another switch inside the actuator that closes a second switch. This second switch is connected to another MASTERCELL input that sends a signal to inMOTION to lock the doors. Take a look at this wiring diagram.

Image of Infinitybox wiring diagram showing how to wire 5-wire lock actuators

There are a few things to consider when using these lock actuators.

Check the wiring diagrams that come with the actuators to confirm the wire colors in our drawing.
Depending on how you have the actuators oriented in the car, you may have to change the wiring for the inMOTION outputs and the central locking switches. You want the up and down directions to be the same on all actuators and you want the lock switches all in the same direction. Check to make sure everything is working correctly before you finalize you wiring connections.
You must properly adjust the linkage for the lock mechanism so that you can get full range on the actuator plungers when you pull up and push down on the lock knob.
Make sure that you train the inMOTION cell correctly. Follow the instructions that came with your inMOTION kit.

You can download a PDF of this wiring diagram by clicking this link.

Click here to contact our technical support team with any questions about wiring central locking with our Infinitybox system.

Side shot of RCR SL-C wired with the Infinitybox System

SL-C Update

September 23, 2016/in Cars /by admin

We love to get project updates from our customers. Grant S. just sent us pictures of his painted Race Car Replicas Superlite Coupe. He just proudly finished the paint and got the body back on the car. This SL-C stands out anywhere it goes. This paint job takes this one to a whole new level. He’s close to finishing the project.

Rear 3/4 Shot of RCR SL-C wired with the Infinitybox System

We’ve been working with the team at Race Car Replicas since 2011. We engineered a complete turn-key wiring system for this car that controls everything. At its core is a MASTERCELL with a POWERCELL in the front and a POWERCELL in the rear. This kit also includes our inLINK wireless system for alarm and security functions. Most importantly, this kit includes all of the wiring harnesses to connect all of the electrical systems in the car.

The SL-C is a very unique car. The kit from Race Car Replicas is one of the most comprehensive in the industry. You get all of the parts that you need to build a super-car. The team at RCR know racing and that shows in every component that you get with this car. Click on this link to learn more about the SL-C.

One of the benefits of our Infinitybox system is that we can tailor it to suit your specific needs. In the case of Grant, he wanted to change the way that his parking lights worked to comply with Canadian rules of the road. We also modified his one-button start sequence so that his fuel pumps had more time to prime. Lastly, he added inRESERVE to his base SL-C kit to monitor and protect his batteries when the car was sitting idle.

Click on this link to contact our technical support team to learn more about how our Infinitybox wiring system can work in your specific project.

Also, send us pictures of your car wired with our Infinitybox system. We’ll get them up on our blog or in the Portfolio section on our website.