Page 17 – Infinitybox

Plugging in POWERCELL battery input harness in Infinitybox system installed in 1967 Mustang

Power Input Cables

June 9, 2016/1 Comment/in Wiring /by admin

Here’s the next step in wiring the 1967 Mustang with our Infinitybox system. You need to run the power input cables from the Mega fuse holder and connect them to the POWERCELLs. There are 4 power input cables included in your kit. They look like this.

POWERCELL Battery Input Harness

These cables have the mating connector that plugs into the circular 8-mm sockets on the POWERCELL. These cables are 8-AWG and are jacketed in high-durability TXL insulation. Each POWERCELL gets two of these cables. This lets you supply a total of 120-Amps to the POWERCELL.

Remember how the POWERCELLs work. They are mounted locally in the car. Your functions like lights, fans, pumps, ignition and starter connect to the POWERCELL. The MASTERCELL sends commands to this POWERCELL through the CAN cable to turn these function on and off. In addition to the CAN cable that sends commands, the POWERCELL needs to get power from the battery for your switched functions. These primary input cables supply the power to the POWERCELL.

For this process, make sure that you have disconnected the positive cable from the battery. Plug the round connector on the end of each of the primary input cable into the POWERCELL and run the cable through the car. All three of the round connector ports on the POWERCELL are the same. You can pick any two of these to plug the cables into.

The other end of this cable needs to connect to the terminals on the Mega fuse holders installed earlier in this process. Cut the cable to length, strip it and crimp on the 8-AWG 5/16″ ring terminals that are included with your 10 or 20-Circuit kit. Make sure that you are using the right tool to make these crimps. Poor crimps cause many problems down the road. This link will take you to a simple tool sold by Del City that can be used for all of your primary power cables and battery cables.

We also strongly recommend covering the exposed area of the ring terminals with heat-shrink tubing. This will minimize exposed metal areas that can lead to short circuits in the car. Del City or Waytek are great sources for heat-shrink tubing.

If you need to, you can lengthen the primary power cables. You can use an 8-AWG crimped butt connector to splice in another length of cable or you can solder the strands together. Done correctly, either are a acceptable way to lengthen these cables.

This picture shows plugging the primary power cables into the rear POWERCELL in our Mustang project.

Plugging in POWERCELL battery input harness in Infinitybox system installed in 1967 Mustang

This picture shows the two primary power cables plugged into the front POWERCELL.

Front POWERCELL Mounted in 1967 Mustang

This picture shows the primary power cables connected to the Mega fuse holder block in near the battery in the rear of the car.

Assembled Mega Fuse block in 1967 Mustang wired with our Infinitybox system

Each POWERCELL has three power input ports on it. You are going to use two of these. To keep the cell sealed, you must plug the power input dummy plug into the unused port. This is included in your kit.

Sealing plug for POWERCELL battery input port.

You can also use one of our POWERPLUGs in the open port.

Power Plug

The POWERPLUG is a very easy way to get fused constant battery power from the POWERCELL. You can use this to power accessories like engine controllers, transmission controllers, audio and LED tail light controllers.

Now that you have the primary power cables properly connected to the primary fuses and the POWERCELLs, you can move on to the next step. Stay tuned for the next post. If you have questions in the meantime, you can contacts us by clicking this link.

MASTERCELL mounted in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox System

Mounting Cells

June 8, 2016/1 Comment/in Wiring /by admin

So, here’s where we are in the wiring process for our customer’s 1967 Mustang. They mounted the primary fuses and ran power from the battery. Now it is time for mounting cells in the car. They are using our 20-Circuit Harness kit, which includes one MASTERCELL and two POWERCELLs. The MASTERCELL connects to the switches in the car (ignition, starter, turn signals, lights, cooling fan sensor, etc.). The POWERCELLs are where the power comes from to turn on the powered things like the ignition, starter solenoid, turn signals, lights, cooling fan and other accessories.

The Infinitybox system works differently from other wiring harnesses. With a traditional wiring harness, you have one box with fuses and relays in the center of the car with wire flowing everywhere from this center point. With the Infinitybox system, you distribute the wiring through the car. This lets you put the power distribution where you need it to keep the runs of wire short.

The MASTERCELL is going to connect to all of your switches. Most of these are located around the steering wheel. That is where you are going to want to mount it. There are two POWERCELLs in this kit. One for the front of the car and one for the rear. You want to mount these POWERCELLs near the things that you are turning on and off. This keeps the runs of wire short and makes installation easier in the car.

We always suggest that customers start by walking around the car and make a list of the switched electrical functions in the car. Our configuration sheets are a great planning tool for this. This link will take you to the standard Front-Engine configuration that is our most popular. Outside of the normal things like lights, ignition, turn signals, fuel pumps, horns and fans, think about the other things that need switched power like amps, extra lights, transmission controllers and other custom features.

Each cell has 4 mounting points in the corners of the housings. These are designed for a 1/4″ bolt. Our preferred mounting method is to use a 1/4″ X 5/8″ shoulder screw. The advantage with a shoulder screw is that you can’t over tighten the screw and crush the mounting point. If you are using a traditional bolt, take care not to over-tighten it and crush plastic collar.

Here are few things to consider when mounting cells. For the easiest install, you want your MASTERCELL to be as close to the switches as possible. You can mount your MASTERCELL in the glove box, in the center console, behind, the dash or behind a kick panel. In the case of this 1967 Mustang, the customer mounted the MASTERCELL above and to the left of the pedal box. Here’s a good picture.

Infinitybox MASTERCELL mounted next to the pedal box in a 1967 Mustang Resto Mod

This location is out of the way but still gives them easy access to the MASTERCELL. The screen on the MASTERCELL is a very important diagnostic tool in the system. You won’t need to get to this often, but you want to make sure that you can get to it when you need it. Also if you have our inLINK radio, the antenna is in the MASTERCELL. You want to make sure that it isn’t buried in the car to get the most range on the key fobs. There are really no other things to worry about when mounting the MASTERCELL outside of keeping the CAN cables and input wires away from the high-voltage wires on your ignition system. This is true for any piece of electronics in the car, not just your Infinitybox hardware.

The input wires from the MASTERCELL will connect this cell to all of the switches in the car. We’ll cover that part in later parts of this install series.

The POWERCELLs are next. You want to put these close to the things that you are powering. In the case of the front POWERCELL, this includes your dash power, ignition, starter solenoid, head lights, high-beams, turn signals, running lights, horn and cooling fan. In the case of the rear POWERCELL, this includes the tail lights, brake lights, fuel pump, reverse lights, turn signals and audio in the trunk. Remember that your POWERCELLs contain the fuses that protect the wires in your harnesses. You want to have easy access to these cells in case one of these fuses opens. There are also diagnostic indicators on the POWERCELLs that give you a wealth of information about how the system is operating. You want to have good access to the cell to see these indicator lights.

The customer mounted the rear POWERCELL in the driver’s side corner of the trunk. Here’s a good picture.

Rear POWERCELL in trunk of 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

They fabricated a mounting plate to support it nicely. Here’s a close up shot of the cell and the mounting plate.

Rear POWERCELL mounted in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

This POWERCELL will be hidden behind a trim panel in the trunk. From this location, the runs of output wire to the turn signals, brake lights, fuel pump and running lights is very short and easy to install.

This customer did something unique in their mounting of the front POWERCELL. They wanted a completely clean engine compartment so they mounted the POWERCELL behind the driver’s fender. See this picture.

Location of front POWERCELL in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

They fabricated a sealed door inside the wheel well. They can turn the wheels to the left, open the panel and get easy access to the POWERCELL if they need. Here’s a closer shot of the mounting location.

Front POWERCELL Mounted in 1967 Mustang

This location gives them very short runs of wire from the POWERCELL to their ECU, starter solenoid, lights, turn signals, cooling fan, horn and dash power.

Depending on your car and your project, you can mount the POWERCELLs practically anywhere in the car. The cells are rated to 125 degrees Celsius (260 F). This means that you can mount them under the hood. They were designed and tested to survive the temperature, shock and chemical exposure of the under-hood environment. Like the MASTERCELL and any other piece of electronics in your car, you want to keep them clear of the ignition coils and high-voltage ignition wiring. You also want to keep them out of the direct radiated heat of your exhaust headers.

Now that mounting cells in the car is complete, the next post will cover running primary power from the Mega fuses to the POWERCELLs. Stay tuned for this next post. If you have questions or comments, please click on this link to contact us.

Infinitybox 1967 Wiring Install- Location of Mega Fuse Block

Mounting Fuses

June 7, 2016/1 Comment/in Wiring /by admin

Here’s the first step in our 1967 Mustang wiring project. It is mounting the fuses that protect the power feeds going to the POWERCELLs. In our 10 and 20-Circuit Harness Kits, we give you a block of Littelfuse Mega fuses to protect the 8-AWG cables that power the cells. In our Express Racing Kits and with our inMOTION cells, we give you a JCASE holder instead of the Mega block.

These fuses serve a very important purpose. They protect the 8-AWG cables from short-circuits or low overloads. The fuse in any circuit is supposed to be the weak link, electrically. They are thermally operating devices that are designed to open and clear the circuit if too much current flows. Wires can be fuses too, which is a bad thing. If too much current flows through a wire, it will heat up. As the wire heats up, the insulation can melt causing fire or other damage in the car.

As mentioned above, the fuses ultimately protect against two things. The most common is a short circuit to ground. If the insulation on the wire were to become damaged and the conductor were to touch the chassis, you have a very low resistance path to ground. The insulation can become damaged over time by rubbing against a sharp edge or can be connected to ground quickly in an accident. You can also accidentally drop a tool across an open set of terminals and make a good short to ground. (We’ll admit that we’ve done that before.) The second thing that the fuse protects against is a low-overload. These are usually resistive connections to ground. They are not as common as a short circuit.

Car batteries have a tremendous amount of stored power in them. A low resistance path to ground will allow a lot of current to flow. This current flow causes heating in the wire. As mentioned above, the fuse is designed to open (blow) before the wire gets hot enough to cause damage. The Mega fuses in your kit are sized at 60-Amps. A 60-Amp fuse is the proper rating to protect an 8-AWG cable.

We have many different blog posts about fusing. Here is a good one for your reference.

In the case of this 1967 Mustang, the battery is in the trunk. The customer mounted the Mega fuse block against the trunk wall, towards the driver’s side of the car. Here’s a picture of the fuse block mounted in the trunk.

Location of Mega Fuse Block in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

You want to make sure that the Mega fuse block is securely mounted in the car. There are mounting holes on the top and bottom of the holders. We recommend using nuts and bolts with lock-washers to mount this to a flat surface like the one shown in the picture above. Self-tapping screws will work too but aren’t as reliable as a bolt & nut with a lock-washer.

You want to have reasonable access to the primary fuses in the car. Over its lifetime, you should really never have to change these fuses. If you ever were to blow one, that means that something bad has happened. You have either been in an accident and one of the cables has broken to ground or the insulation on one of the cables was worn over time.

You want to mount the fuses as close to the battery as possible. The purpose of this is to minimize the length of unprotected wire in the circuit. The unprotected wire is the wire between the power source and the first fuse. We give you the Mega fuse block, the ring terminals, the 8-AWG cables and a 4-AWG cable in your kit. You use the 4-AWG cable to connect the battery to the buss bar on the fuse block.

This picture shows the 4-AWG wire connected to the buss bar on the Mega fuse block. The customer crimped the included ring terminal on the end of the 4-AWG wire and connected that to the buss bar. The other side of this 4-AWG cable connects to the positive side of the battery. This connection can be made directly to the battery, to a primary disconnect switch or to our inRESERVE battery management solenoid. Please note that we strongly recommend a battery disconnect, either a manual switch or our inRESERVE kit.

Also, note that they used heat shrink tubing to protect the exposed part of the terminal. This is recommended to reduce the chance of shorting this side of the fuse block to the chassis.

Primary battery cable connected to Mega Fuse block in 1967 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

Just a quick warning about connecting the Mega fuse and 8-AWG power feeds. You want to connect all of the POWERCELL feeds back to the same Mega fuse holder. This Mega fuse holder should be connected to the battery either directly or through a disconnect solenoid. You must not connect power to your Infinitybox system to the starter cable at the starter motor. This is our recommendation and that of most other electronics manufacturers. There are surges and transients associated with the starter motor that could interfere with your ability to start the engine if you are powering the system from the starter cable at the starter motor.

Once the 4-AWG cable is connected, you need to connect the four 8-AWG feeds that go to the POWERCELLs. Each POWERCELL needs two of these feeds. In the case of this Mustang, two of the 8-AWG feeds route to the POWERCELL in the trunk. The other two 8-AWG feeds run to the front of the car to connect to the front POWERCELL. This picture shows the 8-AWG cable connected and the covers snapped in place on the Mega fuse block. You must keep these covers in place to protect the terminals on the fuses from getting accidentally shorted to ground. (Again, we’ve done that before with a wrench.)

Assembled Mega Fuse block in 1967 Mustang wired with our Infinitybox system

Make sure that all of the bolted connections are tight. Don’t over-tighten these bolts. The recommended bolting torque is 10 foot-pounds. Once that’s done, you’ve finished the job of mounting the fuses. Stay tuned for the next step in the process of wiring a 1967 Mustang with our Infinitybox 20-Circuit Harness Kit. Click on this link to contact us with comments and questions.

Mustang Install

June 6, 2016/in Wiring /by admin

One of our customers just sent us a series of pictures showing a very clean install of our Infinitybox system in a 1967 Mustang. We wanted to take this opportunity to breakdown the process of wiring your car with our system into its basic steps. This Mustang Install series will give you a chance to see the simplicity and ease of wiring with Infinitybox. Plus, you will get a chance to learn about some of the features and benefits of our system over traditional wiring harnesses. We will start the series with the installation of the 20-Circuit Kit in the car. There will be follow up blog posts that will go through these steps:

You can click on any of the steps above to read more details of the wiring process.

The car is a 1967 Mustang done up as a resto-mod. All of the suspension components are modern. They are using a 4.6L modular motor. It will have new heating and air-conditioning. With all of the upgrades, the customer wanted the most modern and flexible wiring system for this car.

Our 20-Circuit Kit is replacing a traditional wiring harness. Instead of one centrally located fuse & relay box, there are separate modules installed in the car where they are needed. All of the switches wire locally to the MASTERCELL mounted under the dash. The tail lights, brake lights, fuel pump, turn signals and audio in the rear of the car wires to the local POWERCELL. The head lights, high-beams, ignition, starter solenoid, horn, fan, parking lights, turn signals and dash power come from the POWERCELL mounted in the front of the car. The only cable running from the front to the back of the car is power and the CAN cable connecting the cells.

Keep watching for updates on our blog to see the details of this Mustang install. You can contact us with questions or comments by clicking this link.

1991 Honda Civic Drag Car wired with the Infinitybox Express Drag Car Kit

Express Drag Kit

June 6, 2016/in Cars /by admin

We just got a few pictures from one of our customers in the United Kingdom. He just finished wiring his 1991 Honda Civic as a drag car. He used our Express Drag Car wiring kit. From the picture below, you can see how simple and easy it is.

The Express Drag Car Wiring Kit is a complete and universal wiring set up for any naturally aspirated car. It includes one of our POWERCELLs, one 8-position switch panel, one of our IOX Input/Output expander modules and all of the harnesses and fuses required to finish the job.

The POWERCELL is our universal output cell. It replaces all of the relays in your car. It has 10-outputs, each fused within the POWERCELL. Each output is rated up to 25-amps continuously. The entire POWERCELL can supply 125-amps continuously. All of the outputs are solid-state. That means that there are no relay contacts to wear over time due to high-vibration or mechanical shock. This also means that we can turn the outputs on and off 5 to 10 milliseconds faster than a conventional relay.

The 8-position switch panel is very simple to install. The entire panel connects back to the POWERCELL through 4 simple wires. All of the switches are back lit and indicate when the outputs are on or off. The toggles have a very solid feel with a resonant click. You know when they are on or off, even when wearing gloves. Lastly, these switches come out of the marine industry. They are designed to thrive in high-vibration, wet and dirty environments. The switch panel is going to control the ignition, starter, fuel pump, water pump, cooling fan, lights and two additional auxiliary outputs. These AUX outputs can be used to control extra fans, pumps, data acquisition, telemetry, cool suits or anything else that you need to switch in the car.

The IOX lets you connect other wired switches into the system. This includes the line-lock, trans-brake and bump-start buttons. The IOX is small enough to loom anywhere needed in the harness. It has diagnostic LEDs on it to show you what is going on. The inputs are ground switched which means you simply run the output wire from the IOX to your switch, then ground the other side of the switch. It’s that easy.

This picture shows the cockpit of the car. You can see the POWERCELL mounted in the passenger foot well. This is a right-hand drive car from The United Kingdom, so flip things around in your head. The switch panel is mounted in the center console below the heater vents. The IOX is also mounted in the center console out of sight.

Interior of 1991 Honda set up for drag racing. This car is wired with the Infinitybox Express Drag Car Kit.

You can click this link to contact our team to learn more about the Express Drag Car Kit. We also have versions of this kit for track cars and off-road racing.

Thanks to Stephen for sharing this picture. We’re proud to be a part of your team.

Mike Ruth's Bob Glidden Tribute Car wired with the Infinitybox Express Drag Car Kit

Ford Fairmont

April 29, 2016/in Cars /by admin

Our good friend Mike Ruth at Alston Racing rebuilt a great piece of race history. This is a tribute to the Ford Fairmont made famous by Bob Glidden. We’re proud to be a part of this project. We worked with Mike and his team to wire it with our Infinitybox Express Drag Kit.

Mike is trying to stay true to the roots of this car. At the same time, he wants it to be functional and easy to maintain. Wiring is always one of those areas in racing that causes problems at the track. That’s why Mike turned to our team to provide a simple and reliable electrical system for the car. We’re controlling everything electrical on the car. This includes the ignition, starter, lights, fuel pump, cooling fans, Accu-sump, water pump, line lock solenoid and trans-brake solenoid.

His POWERCELL is mounted near where the glove box would be in the car. This location makes all of the runs of power wires short and easy to service if needed. His switch panel is located on the roll bar in the center of the car and the IOX is located just forward of the shifter.

REVan EVAN shot a great video of the car at the 2019 PRI Show in Indianapolis. Check out the video below.

This car has a great history and legacy to the racing community. Mike is proud to keep that legacy alive. You can follow this car through the Midwest Pro Stock Association on Facebook. This link will take you there. They race it a lot in the summer months. Be sure to catch it when it comes to town.

If you have a race car that needs wiring, give our team a call to learn more.

Picture of wiring diagram showing how to use a trailer converter with the Infinitybox 10-Circuit Kit.

Turn Signals with a Trailer Converter

April 1, 2016/in Wiring /by admin

A common question that we get relates to wiring turn signals with our 10-Circuit Kit. A lot of guys want to know if they can wire their cars or trucks with a 10-Circuit Kit instead of a 20-Circuit Kit. We put up a post on our blog a while ago talking about the benefits of one kit over the other. You can read that at this link.

For guys wiring with the 10-Circuit Kit, a lot ask about how to get our 1-filament turn signal feature when there is only one POWERCELL in the system.

Our standard 20-Circuit Kit gives you several different options for your turn signals in the rear of the car or truck. This link will get you more detail. The option that raises the most questions is what we call 1-filament turn signals. This version uses one filament from a bulb on both sides of the rear of the car to be both the turn signal and the brake light. The easiest way to check for this is by the color of the lenses on your rear turn signals. If they are red, you probably have a one filament configuration. If they are amber, you’d use what we call multi-filament.

To manage what we call 1-filament turn signals, the POWERCELL turns on both the left and right turn signal outputs at the same time when you step on the brake light. We also have special software in the system that will let one turn signal override the brake light if you have a turn signal on while stopped. With our 20-Circuit Kit, you have two POWERCELLs in the system. The turn signals coming off of the rear POWERCELL act differently than the turn signals on the front POWERCELL.

When you wire your car with our 10-Circuit Kit, you only have one POWERCELL in the system. This means that you have only one pair of outputs controlling your turn signals. You cannot control 1-filament turn signals directly from a single POWERCELL. If you did, your front turn signals would both turn on when you stepped on the brake pedal.

To wire 1-filament turn signals with our 10-Circuit Kit, you need to add a Trailer Light Converter to your wiring harness. These are simple controllers that replicate what we are doing in software for the 1-filament turn signals. This schematic shows you how to wire in a trailer light converter to a 10-Circuit Kit.

Picture of wiring diagram showing how to use a trailer converter with the Infinitybox 10-Circuit Kit.

There are lots of different companies that make trailer converters. Our customers have recommended these two options.

Tow Ready 119130

Hopkins 48895

Contact us if you have any questions about wiring your turn signals. You can download the application note in PDF format by clicking this link.

Picture of wiring diagram showing how to wire the Detroit Speed RS Headlight Cover Motors with the Infinitybox System.

Detroit Speed Headlight Door Kit

March 11, 2016/in Wiring /by admin

Our Infinitybox system can be used to wire practically anything in your restoration, pro-touring car or race car. Here’s another great example. Kyle Tucker’s team at Detroit Speed, Inc. have a long history of innovation. They sell a wide array of products for muscle cars from the mid-1960’s into the early 1980’s. One of their most popular products to our customers is their Electric RS Headlight Door Kit. This lets you replace the vacuum actuated headlight door mechanism on your 1968 or 1969 Camaro RS. You can get more information on the kit here.

The Detroit Speed Headlight Door Kit gives you everything that you’d need to replace the mechanisms to open and close the headlight doors. It is well engineered and comes with a great set of instructions. You can download them here. This kit is easy to install and even easier to wire when you are using our Infinitybox 10 or 20-Circuit Harness Kit.

The Detroit Speed Headlight Door Kit needs to get a signal when the parking lights are on and when the headlights are on. Depending on which lights are on, the kit will open and close the headlight doors. With a traditional wiring harness, you would need to run wires from the headlight switch on the dash all the way forward to the headlights. With the Infinitybox system, power for the lights and the Headlight Door Kit comes locally from the POWERCELL mounted in the front of the car. The following diagram shows how you connect your front POWERCELL to the connector on the Detroit Speed Headlight Door Kit. Essentially, you splice off the parking light and head light output wires from the front POWERCELL and connect these wires to the parking light and headlight terminal on their controller. Remember, that this is coming from the POWERCELL not the MASTERCELL.

Picture of wiring diagram showing how to wire the Detroit Speed RS Headlight Cover Motors with the Infinitybox System.

The Detroit Speed Headlight Door Kit needs to get a constant power feed from the battery. You can connect this directly to the battery or use one of our POWERPLUGs to get fused battery power locally from the POWERCELL.

You can download a PDF of this wiring diagram by clicking this link. If you have any questions about wiring the Detroit Speed Electric RS Headlight Door Kit or any other wiring questions, give our team a call.

Picture of a Land Rover Defender 110 wired with the Infinitybox system.

Land Rover Defender Wiring

March 1, 2016/in Cars /by admin

Our Infinitybox system has been used in all kinds of cars and trucks. One of our customers just posted pictures of his installation progress on The Defender Source forum. This is an on-line community completely dedicated to guys restoring Land Rover Defenders. “Azarur” is doing a complete frame-off restoration of his Land Rover Defender 110. He has a very detailed build thread that covers all aspects of the project. He’s working on wiring now and has just posted some great pictures.

Here’s what he started with for the wiring in his Land Rover Defender. This is a mess.

Starting wiring

Azarur came to us looking for help and a better way to wire his Land Rover Defender 110. He’s doing a pretty extreme restoration of this 110 so he wanted to add the works, electrically. He started out with our 20-Circuit Kit. Then added inMOTION to control his power windows and locks. He wanted to be able to control the system from his iPhone so he added inTOUCH NET. He added inRESERVE so that our system could actively manage the battery. Lastly, he’s adding a Vintage Air Gen-IV to the Defender and he wanted to control that through inTOUCH NET so he added inVIRONMENT.

Here you can see all of his hardware laid out neatly.

Infinitybox hardware laid out

Here you can see how he mounted his inRESERVE solenoid and ran his primary battery cable.

inRESERVE Location

Here you can see his primary Mega fuses plus the JCASE fuse holder for the inMOTION Cell.

Primary Fuses

He has fabricated great access compartments for the MASTERCELL, POWERCELLs and inMOTION.

MASTERCELL and inMOTION Locations

The rear POWERCELL is mounted behind the subwoofer in the back of the truck.

Rear POWERCELL

The front POWERCELL is mounted under the dash above the transmission tunnel.

Front POWERCELL

This is going to be a great install when it is finished. You can see the entire build thread for this Land Rover Defender 110 at The Defender Source website. Search for a build thread titled “LR 110: Two years and thousands of hours“.

If you have questions or are looking to wire your car or truck, reach out to our team and we can help get you going.

1971 Mustang

November 23, 2015/in Cars /by admin

We love to get pictures from our customers, especially progress pictures showing updates on their projects. As cool as it is to see the final car, we love the see how a customer got there step by step. We got these pictures from Infinitybox customer Lee A. He’s been working on a 1971 Mustang for a while now. He’s proud to say that he’s done 95% of the work himself. He also says that this is his first project like this. It is awesome work for his first restoration.

Lee bought the car from his son in 2007 and immediately went to work. He did most of the work at the automotive craft shop at the Ft. Sill military base in Oklahoma. He had worked a deal with the base to give him shop space in return for teaching a body and paint class. His efforts taught over 300 people how to use the booths and gave them the confidence to get their projects going.

Lee used side mirrors form a 1987 La Sabre and seamlessly blended them into the doors. He shaved the door handles and removed the passenger lock. The engine is a 302 with a mild race cam and headers. He rebuilt a C4 transmission with all new items and high performance valves. The rear end is a stock 8-inch with 3.55 gears. It has all new suspension components and disc brakes in all 4 corners.

Lee did all of this work himself while dealing with nerve damage in his right leg from an injury that he sustained while serving in the military.

Lee has our 20-circuit kit powering the car. He also has inMOTION controlling his power locks and power windows. He has the front POWERCELL where the remote starter solenoid usually is in this vintage of Mustang. You can see it in these pictures.

Front POWERCELL mounted under hood of 1971 Mustang

This is a great shot of the POWERCELL next to that nicely chromed engine.

Picture under the hood of a 1971 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

The rear POWERCELL is nicely placed in the trunk near to the battery. The MASTERCELL and the inMOTION cell are neatly tucked in behind the glove compartment door. This makes for very easy access to the MASTERCELL for diagnostics.

MASTERCELL and inMOTION Cell Mounted in a 1971 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.

Lee has really put the details into this car. You can see it in the fit and finish of the body work and even in the way that he has the wires braided and loomed. It is a very neat and clean install. We can’t wait to see the final product.

Thanks to Lee for sending us these pictures. If you have pictures of your wiring job with our Infinitybox system, please send them and we’ll get them up on our blog for all to see.

Rear picture of 1971 Mustang wired with the Infinitybox system.